Wed 10th June
3 nights in one place - and our feet are beginning to itch. Time to start moving north towards Igmounenista. Not far from Monvasia there is an acroplis of Zarax, just above Gerakas Port. We found Gerakas Port OK - a quiet unspoilt fishing village in a hidden cove - but the Acroplis was rather trickier. A plan in the car park made it sound easy - but the path fizzled out. We found another path, also over grown, and that was quite a difficult scramble. When we got to the top there were a few walls, but the whole area was overgrown with weeds and thorns, so we came back the way we had come. We had lunch here before we left - but one of the seats in the van came apart, and I spent a happy hour fixing it.
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| Gerakas Port |
We attempted to take the coast road north to Leonido, signposted and marked as a major road. We had to stop to allow a huge herd of goats pass - and some huge goats with huge horns too. And dogs. As we approached half a dozen fearsome looking dogs lunged towards us, looking very threatening. As we drove on, they kept up with us for at least half a mile - I must admit to driving slowly enough so they could.
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| goats - and feral dogs - and good wide road |
The road surface here was new, wide and excellent. Then we reached a county boundary. Good road stopped, no road started! Not even a dirt track, but a levelled out rock surface, with boulders sticking out, and loose stones. This was not a level piece of road, but a mountain road complete with steep hills, hairpin bends, and no edge barriers. We continued for a bit to see if normal surface resumed - but it didn't. Thinking it would be insane to continue, in a motorhome, we turned round and let the satnav find a different way - (that allowed us to tease the wild dogs again:).
The alternative route was 25 miles, took over an hour of very difficult roads, and delivered us just 3 miles from where we turned round. Driving in the Greek mountains is HUGELY more challenging than the Alps. Bends and gear changes occur every minute or so, there are large unguarded drops beside the driver, and you cannot lose concentration for an instant. Exhausting!
Eventually we arrived at Camping Zaritso. 120 miles or so by road, but only a few miles as the crow flies. Exhausted from a tiring drive, we started to get dinner ready - to discover that a jar of runny honey had tipped over, the lid had become dislodged, and assisted by steep hills and hairpin bends had spread itself underneath the cupboards. So another happy hour was spent dismantling the cupboards, cleaning out a very sticky mess, and reassembling it all.
Not one of our best days!
Miles 2321
Thurs 11th June
Continuing our march northwards, we are heading for Nafplio, when we spent some time 5 years ago searching for an English speaking Dentist. On the way we called in at an ancient Mycenean centre, Tyrins. The books say this is the equal of Mycenae, but the Tyrins ruins are definitely worth a miss unless you're a committed archaelogist (which I ain't!).
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| Tyrins - the most interesting bit |
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| Napflio - you can just see Tilly on the quay, where we spent 3 nights |
Summer has arrived in Greece. Previously the temperature was just about right. Today the temperature has shot up. In the shade and in the breeze it's rather nice. In the sun and out of the breeze it is hot and sticky! Before it got too hot, Rosemary went off sketching, and I dismantled the gas pipes to apply my new sealant to the leaking bottle. Typically, the joint that was leaking no longer is, but on the grounds that the leak is certain to reappear when you least need it to, I applied the sealant anyway.
Back on the quay, we have been joined by two Czech motorhomes, some Dutch and a German.
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Naflplio was the capital of Greece after independence. Losing that dubious honour to Athens has meant that it retains an old world charm, and isn't surrounded by suburbs and covered in smog. A huge Dutch cruise ship is anchored in the bay, and a stream of boats are ferrying passengers back on board. They've probably had a flying visit to Mycenae, 11 miles away
Miles 2361 N 37.56857 E 22.80111
Sat 13th June
An early start - and by 8.30 we were the 2nd vehicle in the Mycenae car park. €4 each to go in to a well preserved and very ancient site, dating from circa 1500 BC. The Mycenians had a very cultured civilisation based on trade, including tin from England and amber from the Baltic. It fell apart as a result of earthquakes, fires, and attacks by "the sea people", whom we assume to be the Phoenecians
To a non archaelogist like me, the most interesting parts were the Lion Gate - the huge lintel of which has a relief of 2 lions, the first relief in Europe by 1500 years, and the "Tomb of Agamemnon" - a huge beehive domed room, made of very heavy rocks cut to just the right shape, and self supporting,
The lintel is curved in 2 planes, to suit the contours of the tomb. Whilst we were there a French couple arrived. The man sang a snatch from an aria - a lovely voice, and the acoustics were superb. And as we left the tomb, a group of Koreans arrived. Many of the females were wearing surgical masks - obviously Greek air is dangerous - but I noticed they bravely removed them to have their photos taken.
Back at the main site, Rosemary asked if she could go back in to do some sketching. The young man said "You're English. No problem. If you were German you'd have to pay again" It was said in jest, but that is the first (tiny bit) of anti German sentiment we've come across.
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| Supposedly the death mask of Agamemnon, but actually 300 years older |
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| I can't resist a good lizard! |
Saturday afternoon, and we're back on the quay at Nafplio...and it's hot! August must be unbearable!
There is a new arrival in the port, an absolutely beautiful motor yacht, called Nero. I was there fairly early to admire her, and was joined by a retired Greek sailor, and we admired her together. An absolutely classic design, built in 2007 based onthe design of JP Morgan's personal yacht of the 1920's. The sweep of the bow, the curve of the stern, the clean lines - I think I'm in love again, but have agreed to share her with the Greek sailor. She's available for charter, and divides her time between the Aegean and the West Indies - she's registered in the Bahamas.
http://www.burgessyachts.com/en/charter-cat-1/yachts-for-charter/motor-yachts/nero-00006250.html/
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| so graceful - behind is the Venetian castle |
Most visitors only get as far as the 3rd century theatre. Performances of ancient Greek dramas are still held here.
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| The acoustics are superb. I felt a "Friends, Romans, countrymen..." speech was called for. A coin dropped in the centre can be heard from the highest seat. It can accommodate 14,000 |
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| The arena - still used from time to time |
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| Esklapion - and the coolest part of the site |
By midday it was very hot indeed, so we carried on the 5 miles or so to Camping Nicholas 1 at Ancient Epidavros. The ancient part of the town is actually under the sea, following an earthquake 2000 years ago. There 2 campsites called Camping Nicholas. Number 1 is older, flatter, and closer to the town. We have a pitch just 2 yards from the sea. When we were here 5 years ago, in September, the waves were splashing over the top.
Shortly after we arrived, a Dutch caravan came in beside us. Turns out he was the ACSI campsite inspector.
Miles 2417 N 37.62967 E 23.15853
Tues 16th June
The town is just over a mile away, an easy track takes you past a little theatre, currently closed so an archaeological dig can take place. Near the campsite we passed a very ancient olive tree, quite probably over 2000 years old, and lying in its shadow, a section of an ancient Greek column, the whole lot subsumed by undergrowth.
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| just lying around! piece of culumn, under very ancient olive tree |
We ate in a nearby restaurant, but we weren't too impressed with what we got for €26. If you want a job done properly, do it yourself!
What a beauty - the Yacht I mean!
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